Finish - Your dulcimer finish is a gelled polyurethane. It should require very little maintenance. As with any fine piece of furniture, it is recommended that it not be stored in direct harsh sunlight for long periods of time. Over long periods of time, it can cause some dulling of the finish or fading of the wood. If after several months, it does not seem quite as rich a finish, you may use a small amount of a good quality paste furniture finish wax. Rub on a small amount (not on the ebony overlay), let it dry, and buff with a soft cloth. It should be beautiful forever.

Your fretboard overlay is ebony (unless something else was special ordered). When you change the strings, clean and oil the ebony. While the strings are off, use a piece of 0000 (very fine) steel wool with some lemon oil on it and briskly scrub the surface of the ebony and frets (no other part of the dulcimer). Let it set a few minutes and then dry with a soft cloth. After you put the new strings on, wipe them with the cloth that has the oil residue on it. This will keep it looking and feeling new forever.

Storage – Never leave the dulcimer in an extremely hot temperature such as a car on a hot sunny day. Our shop is maintained at around 45% relative humidity. If you are located in an extremely dry climate, the wood will shrink over time. If this happens, you will notice that the tuning keeps going flat from day to day. This is normal and after a month to a few months, it will stabilize and hold the tuning. Also, in extreme cases, the fredboard can shrink enough that the frets will begin to protrude past the edge of the fretboard and you will be able to feel them. This can easily be dressed down by a luthier. Changes in temperature causes expansion and contraction of the wood as well. If you change the temperature environment of the dulcimer, it’s tuning will change a bit until the temperature stabilizes.

The violin edge on the top and bottom can be a bit fragile if abused. Avoid dropping the dulcimer especially on its edge or leaning it against the wall where it can slide over and bang into the floor. A lot of dulcimers are damaged by leaving them on a chair while taking a break in a jam. It only takes a bump to the chair to send it to the floor. Keep the case handy and place it there for safe keeping.

Setup – There are four tuners on the dulcimer (unless ordered with 3). Most of my customers only use three strings so that is the way it ships unless you advise me you want something different. If you want to play double melody, simply add a fourth string to the inner melody groove. The nut and bridge are also set up for four equidistant strings. Also, there is a second bass groove. If you play three strings and like a close spacing, move the melody and bass strings to their inner notches.

Strings – I use ball end guitar strings. The gauge strings that were on your dulcimer when it shipped are marked on the label inside one of the sound holes. The instrument was intonated for that gauge string. Typically, you can go down or up one gauge size and still be OK on the intonation. Going down will give a bit softer feel to fret and be a bit softer/sweeter sound. Going up a gauge size will give a firmer feel with a bit more volume and punch. Experiment and see what you like. We sell string sets and individual gauges on our website or use whatever brand strings you prefer.

There are a lot of theories about when or how often to change the strings. It can depend on the environment and how often and hard you play. Also, it depends on your sensitivity to the tone. It’s a personal thing that you will have to determine for yourself. For sure, if you can see corrosion on them, it is past time to change them. When installing new strings:

· If replacing all of them, follow the fretboard cleaning instructions described above.

· Bend a slight hook near the ball of the string to help it stay on the pin while installing. If you have it, place a piece of masking tape over it to further help hold it on. This isn’t critical but just makes it easier.

· Pull the string through the tuner and then pull it back just a couple of inches and wind the knob so the string wraps to the inside of the post. Make sure the string is positioned over the bridge. I put a piece of masking tape over that as well so I don’t have to pay attention to it. Hold tension on the string and guide the wraps down the post with each wrap tight against but not overlapping the previous.

· Bring the string up to tune.

· Many people believe that new strings need to “stretch in”. The strings do not stretch beyond yield. What happens with new strings is they have to work all the slack out around the tuner post. Once that tension equalizes, it will quit going flat.

· You can speed up the process. Grasp a string near the 7th fret and give it a good tug up like an inch or more off the fretboard. Do this for each string. Then, retune it. Keep doing this until the tuning stabilizes. It usually takes 3 or 4 times.

· Trim the strings or curl them with a coin like curling a ribbon as you desire. Be careful as the strings are like needles.

That’s about all there is to it. If you are aware of something I should add to this list to make it easier for folks, please let me know. Properly cared for, the dulcimer should last for generations.

I appreciate your business and support and hope you enjoy it.

Warmest regards,

Terry McCafferty

First off, I do not take credit for this basic design. It was first shared with me by the late Larry Barringer. I don't know if Larry came up with it but I suspect he did for the following reason. Larry had a relationship with the late builder Robert Mize and Larry's design is a "derivative" of the Mize design. However, Mize used the traditional box style scroll peghead and Larry's is a cross between a scroll and a flat peghead. The logic behind this design and the reasons I like it are as follows.

Mine, Larry's, and Bob's dulcimer design came from the Kentucky style developed in the 1800's by JE "Uncle ED" Thomas. Those dulcimers and a very large portion of early traditional dulcimers had the scroll head and wooden pegs much like a fiddle. I really feel this is an elegant look and a traditional look that I would like to preserve on this model of my dulcimers.

Now the wooden pegs on the other hand may be traditional, but I wouldn't wish their finicky nature on anyone. So, I use modern geared tuning machines. A flat top peghead (like on a guitar) is much easier to get at the strings for service than the early traditional box design where the string posts are enclosed.

So if you look at the design of my peghead, you see the beauty of the scroll like design, but also, you get the ergonomic advantages of the flat top peghead with right angle high ratio tuners. For me, this design gives the best of both worlds.